A state overflowing with natural beauty and, as its name implies, a wealth of thermal baths, Aguascalientes is one of Mexico's true gems. Located in the heart of the colonial heartland, Aguascaliente's roots trace back to the sixteenth century when Indians, soldiers, monks, ranchers, traders and adventures paved the way for what is now a culmination of culture, history and a local color defined by its character and gregarious nature. April marks the arrival of the San Marcos Fair, when thousands of people descend upon the city of Aguascalientes for three weeks of traditional Mexican fun and fiesta.
History
As a part of the colonial heartland that encompasses Querétaro and San Miguel de Allende, Aguascalientes was also an important stopover on the silver route to the capital. Originally occupied by the Chichimec tribes prior to the Spanish Conquest, Aguascalientes later became host to presidios, or garrisons, which served as advanced posts for military detachments. These garrisons gradually attracted settlers, including small traders and farmers, who planted orchards and paved the way for a fruitgrowing vocation that continues today. In fact, the state is the largest producer of guava and a major frozen vegetable exporter, and also boasts outstanding peach and grape harvests. Today the state retains this richness of natural history and social evolution, boasting a beautiful scenery replete with water, temperate climate and a population well-known for its hospitality.
Highlights
San Marcos Fair
By far the the biggest Mexican fair of its kind, the San Marcos Fair is an age old tradition. Crowds of up to one million fill the Aguascalientes streets and fairgrounds around the clock. This years fair features a host of traditional Mexican entertainment, including parades, fireworks, bullfights, charreadas (Mexican rodeos), cockfights, concerts, and exhibitions, as well as classic fair offerings, such as mechanical games and rides.
The fair dates back to 1604 when a small indigenous Indian settlement, San Marcos, was founded within walking distance of the growing Spanish city of Aguascalientes. The fair's religious origins, long forgotten, have given way to a lively, colorful, three-week spectacular in which the various events and merriment compete for visitors' attentions.
What to see
La Patria Square
This is the town's nucleus, and has been remodeled on several occasions, most recently in 1985. A stroll through this plaza and you're sure to experience the essence of the city of Aguascientes. The center heralds an Ionic column, built in 1808 in honor of the Spanish King Carlos IV. When the work was finished, a stone statue of the king's son was placed on top, but after the revolution was replaced with an eagle devouring a serpent.
Government Palace
Located at the south side of the Plaza de la Patria, this is an extraordinary labyrinth of arches, pillars, and staircases around its main courtyard. The interior showcases a series of murals painted by Oswaldo Barra Cunningham, who was a pupil of Diego Rivera.
The only remaining 17th century civic building, the split-level façade is covered in 'tezontle,' a volcanic stone brought in from other regions of Mexico, offering a beautiful contrast with the square and the floor of the building.
Basilica Cathedral
Across the Plaza de la Patria stands this 18th century cathedral that features a gallery of colonial paintings. What began as a small, modest chapel built in 1575 was completely rebuilt in 1738, and fashioned in a primitive Baroque style. The temple boasts three elaborate domes and vaulted ceilings decorated with gold, the symbol of perpetuity and eternal life. The main altar bears the image of Our Lady of the Assumption, patron of the city.
José Guadalupe Posada Museum
(Díaz de León) This is a fascinating museum dedicated to artist José Guadalupe Posada, Mexico's most well-known cartoonist who is often referred to as the founder of Mexican modern art. His satirical cartoons and engravings during the Porfiriato dictatorship broadened art appreciation in Mexico and inspired later artists like Diego Rivera. His hallmark was the calavera, (skull or skeleton), which has become a Mexican icon. Museum has a large collection of Posada prints, each displayed alongside the original zinc plate etching, as well as other temporary exhibitions.
Morelos Theatre
Located in the Republica Square facing the south side of the Basilica Cathedral, this neo-classical cultural center was originally built in 1885 and then renovated after the revolution in 1914. Aside from offering plays, opera, concerts and a museum with revolutionary murals and photo exhibitions, the theatre was also the site of the 1914 Convention of Aguascalientes. This event marked the meeting of the revolutionary factions of Pancho Villa, Venustiano Carranza, and Emiliano Zapata as they tried to reconcile their differences. The museum is reached from Nieto street, passing through the rear of the theater and requesting permission from the caretaker, and is well worth the visit.
Aguascalientes Museum
(Zaragoza 505) This museum has a permanent exhibition by Saturnine Herrán (1887-1918), another Aguascalientes native. The works are reminiscent of French art nouveau, portraits and illustrative work. The museum also hosts temporary exhibits.
San Antonio Temple
(Corner of Pedro Parga and Ignacio Zaragoza, across from the Aguascalientes Museum) This religious monument is a delightful melting pot of architectural styles, boasting a highly ornate interior with huge round paintings and decoration highlighted in gold. Dating back to 1908, the temple is a true masterpiece of eclecticism.
Contemporary Art Museum
(Juan de Montoro 222) Just one and a half blocks from the main square in a house built in the late 19th century, the Contemporary Art Museum consists of ten exhibition rooms distributed around two courtyards and features prizewinning contemporary works and collections, as well as exhibitions brought in from other Mexican and international museums. The museum also houses a permanent exhibition dedicated to Enrique Guzmán, an important figure within contemporary plastic arts.
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